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Thu Jun 05 2003 (Ghanzi to Maun)

Kefirwe left early to catch first bus to Maun, I aim for 9.30am bus. Huge insect bites on both arms. Check out, P280 (£35). Battle around Spar with both packs, couple of bottles of water and some chocolate snacks. Arrive at bus depot around 9.25am. Just a big dusty empty area with a few trees and stalls scattered around edge. Stalls not too active, but one is a telephone stand. See cousin again. Talk to Matthew, on his way to Maun as well. No sign of bus. Turns out bus went at 8.30am,next one around 2.30pm maybe. Walk 15 mins to bus stop on main road on edge of town with Matthew. Knows his footy (follows ManU). Watches all televised games, knew about upcoming Slovakia game,will be watching that. Talked about stability of Botswana compared with DR Congo (has large diamond resources) and Zimbabwe (he believes white farmers should not be touched as they are Zimbabwean). Some of his colleague from lodge he works at are at bus stop. A few people get a ride straight away, but not much after that. Get shirt signed in San and languages of Okavango, Kalahari. Matthew wants me to send him a Derby shirt. Mad guys up road chasing cars, doing press-ups in road and running out from bushes. Get lift around 11am from local government counsellor. Lady up front, three of us in back, Botswana gospel music playing, then puts Euro pop CD on. Stop short of Maun at a junction to get a quick snack and drink. Arrive in Maun, dusty town, a bit sprawling. Matthew takes me to tourist centre. Initially a bit cold attittude, but then Moagi lightens up and we have a good laugh. First place he recommends is $100 flight and then $350/night! Try Makwena, no accomm or food there, need to be totally self-sufficient for entire time there. Makwena suggests Sepupa, radio phone, bit of disaster, eventually get in touch with May who handles bookings. Camping, catch boat to Seronga and organise Mokoro from there. Need to be self-sufficient during Mokoro trip. Stay and chat to tourist office people for a while, nice bunch. Don't fancy travelling away from Maun so go for only in-town option at Riley's Hotel. P490 (£65), look at camping, really basic and not too clean. No rooms available. Matthew was working at Audi Camp so try there. Get double permanent tent for P160 (£21). Into Shoprite, get can opener, small pan, mug, spoon, knife and cig lighter. Get taxi for P20 (£2.70) that isn't taxi outside. His mate comes too. Talking about footy, poor state of neighbouring countries. Check-in, cool place, outdoor rush-constructed showers and toilets. I have big dark green safari tent with mozzie netting, twin beds, small light and fan, bbq point and picnic table. Down to look at swimming pool, then into bar, huge thatched open area, Lloyd Cole and Commotions playing. Mexican beef stir fry and Windhoeks. Back at tent,light mozzie spiral, crash on bed. Photos from today